Why your knees will thank you

If you have ever descended a long Lake District fell or a Scottish Munro, you will know the feeling: your quadriceps burning, your knees protesting, and every step down feeling like a small act of violence. Trekking poles are not just for balance on river crossings or for taking the sting out of uphill pulls. They are at their most valuable on steep, sustained descents, where they can reduce the load on your knees by as much as 25 per cent. That is not a trivial saving when you have another 600 metres of descent ahead of you and a train to catch. Used well, poles turn a jarring, joint-pounding descent into a controlled, rhythmic walk. Used badly, they are just extra weight in your hands. This article is about using them well.

Setting the right length for the gradient

The single most common mistake is leaving poles at one length for the whole day. Your poles should be adjusted for the terrain underfoot. On flat ground, a good starting point is to stand upright with the pole tip on the ground and your elbow bent at roughly 90 degrees. From there, make changes as the gradient changes.

• Uphill: shorten your poles by 5–10 centimetres. This lets you push down and back without lifting your shoulders or hunching forward.
• Downhill: lengthen your poles by 5–10 centimetres, and sometimes a little more on very steep ground. The aim is to plant the tip well ahead of your feet while keeping your torso upright rather than leaning back.
• Side-hilling: shorten the downhill pole and lengthen the uphill one so both tips reach the ground comfortably. This feels odd for the first few minutes but quickly becomes natural.

Many poles have marked sections or numbered lines. Once you find your ideal length for a particular gradient, note the number. It saves fiddling about when the weather turns and your hands are cold.

Planting ahead – the golden rule

On a descent, your poles should act as outriggers, not walking sticks. The tip goes ahead of your next foot placement, not behind you. As you step down, you transfer a little weight through the pole, which takes pressure off the leading leg. The rhythm is: plant, step, plant, step. Keep your elbows slightly bent and your grip relaxed. You are not trying to stab the ground; you are guiding yourself down.

Use the wrist straps properly. Slide your hand up through the loop from below, then grip the handle so the strap runs across the back of your hand and around your wrist. This lets you rest your weight on the strap rather than clenching the handle. Your fingers should stay loose. If your forearms are aching after an hour, you are gripping too hard.

On rocky ground, look for flat spots or gaps between stones. A pole tip that skids on a wet rock is worse than no pole at all. Take a moment to place it deliberately, especially when the rock is greasy with rain or algae.

Taking the load off your knees

The knee-saving magic happens when you engage the poles before your foot takes your full weight. As you lower yourself down a step, the pole should already be planted and taking some of your mass. This is what reduces the compressive force through the kneecap and the strain on your quadriceps. On a long descent, aim to let the poles carry 20–30 per cent of your weight. You will feel the difference in your legs at the end of the day.

Shorten your stride. Long, loping steps down a steep slope are a recipe for jarring impacts and tired legs. Small, controlled steps with a pole plant between each one keep you balanced and spread the load. On very steep sections, you can even descend sideways, facing slightly across the slope, using the poles as a fence on the downhill side.

Terrain-specific tactics

• Loose scree or gravel: lengthen poles slightly and plant them firmly, using them as brakes. Step down gently, heel first, and avoid sudden stops.
• Rocky steps: place the pole tip on the step below, not on the edge where it might slip. Take one step at a time, using the pole as a handrail.
• Wet grass or bog: keep poles short enough that you can push down without them sinking too far. Use a wide stance and plant poles either side of your line of travel.
• Steep heather or tussocks: poles help you probe for hidden holes. Tap the ground ahead before committing your weight.

Common mistakes and kit checks

Even experienced walkers fall into bad habits. Watch out for poles that are too long on uphill sections, which forces you to shrug your shoulders and waste energy. Avoid carrying poles horizontally in front of you on descents – they catch on rocks and trip you. And do not forget to adjust them when the gradient changes; a pole that is perfect for a gentle incline will feel clumsy on a steep drop.

Before you set out, check your locking mechanisms. Twist-locks can slip in cold, wet conditions; flick-locks can catch on vegetation. Make sure your baskets are secure – a missing basket means a pole that sinks into soft ground. Worn tips should be replaced before they scratch and skid on rock. Finally, know when to stow them. On a hands-on scramble, poles become a liability. Collapse them, strap them to your rucksack, and use your hands. Your poles will be waiting when the ground eases and your knees need them again.